To risk the response of "nuh uh" or "that's subjective," I'll give my honest feelings on the game as best I can recall having played it over a decade ago.
-Too much dialogue (aka the ATE system) Every town feels like a massive chore because the characters won't just STFU. Every line is punctuated by some canned animation. Every. *hands on hips* Single. *waves arms* One. *jumps up and down*. Ugh.
-I hated most of the cast. They are either annoying, or boring.
--Zidane: he likes women. What else is his personality exactly? Cardboard.
--Garnet: Moron. Makes the dumbest decisions constantly. Looks 13, but has cleavage and yoga pants. Wouldn't want the FBI to see me with screenshots of her.
--Vivi: His character was especially aggravating to me. FF9 was pitched as a 'return to classics.' At no point in previous games were black mages homunculi created as living weapons. His character feels like a bait and switch, which is emblematic of the entire game.
--Steiner: Is he wearing
shorts? I can't take a knight seriously if I can see his socks. CLANK CLANK CLANK CLANK. He wins points for being the best character in combat.
--Amarant: Eh? Is he jamaican or something? Forgettable
--Quina: is Quina. Moving on.
--Freya: Is she a rat or something? I remember she has some kind of memory loss, but I don't remember why. Fitting.
--Eiko: She's a loli and no better or worse than other lolis, so I guess she gets a pass.
This is subjective to some degree. However I think it bears mentioning that the way FF9 communicates it's characters' personality and themes is through dialogue. So, so, so much dialogue. Compare it to FF6, which communicates its character's personalities
through battle. We can tell from the Blitz commands that Sabin is a man of training and focus. We can tell from Rage that Gau is wild and unpredictable. We see that Strago is an old dog struggling to learn new tricks with Lore. We see that Celes is not a destroyer like her brethren, but a protector with Runic. We can tell that Cyan is a man who waits for the perfect moment from his Sword Arts.
Even though FF9's character concepts are cut from similar cloth, the execution is completely off. None of the characters fight like they act (except maybe Quina). Steiner is a bumbling doofus in every scene, but in combat he's an unstoppable juggernaut. It's incongruent and weird. I prefer Show vs Tell.
-Too Linear. Not an uncommon problem in FF games, but FF9 is probably the second-most linear game after 13. Even 10 lets you backtrack to Besaid from most points. FF9 not only shunts you from one dungeon or town to the next, but closes off most previous areas for most of the game. Call it an issue with the PSX's limited disc size, it still sucks.
-Grindy in a specific, annoying way. Compared to other games where I can push through most areas and grind efficiently where I want to, in FF9 I feel like I have to stop and grind after every town to get the latest batch of abilities memorized. Spamming steal on every boss is tiresome, but you might miss those rare items! This may be on me for OCD/completionism though.
-Unbalanced. Use Steiner and Shock, win the game. Basic attacks seem to do more damage than spells most of the time, and summons are lame. I use gems to heal instead of spells, making two entire character useless.
-No party control. Only FF4 gives you less control over your team. I don't think you get to pick your party members freely until the very end.
-Kuja. Is there a more lame villain in the series?
-Love story: I don't buy it. Zidane and Garnett have no particular reason to like each other.
-Bad pacing. A big problem with the plotting in the game is the characters rarely establish any kind of coherent goal. They're constantly talking about what their next move should be and never come to a clear decision. This is a basic storytelling thing for me, but when characters say "We need to do X" the subsequent scenes should involve the characters working towards X, until X is achieved. FF9 follows this at the beginning (Kidnapping Garnet) and then falls off the rails. The characters make a whole bunch of random decisions or are purely reactive.
This isn't just a story or drama problem; videogames need goals. Win states. Even a simple game like Dragon Quest has a goal (Defeat the Dragon Lord) and feels like it has more plot momentum than this game. FF9 is directionless and meandering. Oh, I guess the queen is attacking a town. Now some random chick in a tube top is hunting us. I guess we're heading to this tree now. Wait, we're rivals with a Rastafarian wrestler. Now we gotta go save the petrified guy OMFG. Remember him? Too bad, do it. Cid is a frog, lol (worst minigame ever). Oh, I guess it's about aliens or replicants or something. MENTAL BREAKDOWN! You're not alone (gud song). All better. Oh, here's Necron, because shut up. The End.
-The biggest one for me was the battle system: it's straight up broken. While I was initially enthused by having four party members again, I was let down by how the action queueing works. Combine with the animations, you can easily stack up all your character's ATB bars before a single attack has finished. But the later enemies don't play by these rules, and constantly interrupt your attacks, meaning if you input four commands, you're going to get hit a bunch of times before you can react, because the enemies (and only the enemies) can interrupt turns. Going quickly and inputting many commands is *intensely* punished. The best strategy is to hold all your actions in reserve, attack cautiously with one party member (Steiner, if you have him), and get ready to heal from the counter attacks. It's uninteresting and dull. It's like that boost system from Xenosaga 2 or S-Crafts in Kiseki, but only the enemies get to use it. Frustrating.
Overall, I just didn't care for it. None of the systems gelled together for me in a fun way, it doesn't have any compelling features to revisit, no epic fights, no alternate builds or routes to try, and as you have admitted yourself, it's quite slow to play. I'm sure there's speed hacks now that fix some of those problems, but nothing is going to fix the writing, the ATE system, the interrupts, the villains, the plot, or Steiner's damn shorts.