Alright a brief commentary on what I've played so far.
Gameplay: I'm playing on Survival and its extremely hard. Enemies deal a LOT of damage and your starting health is remarkably low. Enemy damage taken isn't what I would describe as spongy exactly, but you're definitely not one-shotting enemies with the shitty weapons you start with. I found an actual fucking Longsword in one of the buildings in the early game area, and holy shit this thing pumps out damage. It's brutal, but I'm enjoying it a lot - I've played Frost, so this kind of thing doesn't give me whiplash like it does your typical Fallout 4 normies - plenty of them crying in the Discord.
I've nerfed the 'needs' aspects of Survival but I needn't have to be honest, the mod drowns you in water and food if you're smart about it. It's not anywhere as challenging in this respect as Frost is. You can craft Purified Water with 3x Dirty Water (which can be bottled) just by using a Cooking Station, lmao. AND Purified Water heals you!
Writing: it's not that bad, honestly. Initially I wasn't too impressed, but I met a couple of NPCs in the Swan & Mitre whose dialogue really impressed me, and had me laughing out loud. And I'm not talking about the cringy 'I'M BRITISH YOU KNOW'-style of dialogue, the mod has plenty of that and it's not that funny, but these NPCs were actually genuinely well-written.
Quests: it's a real mixed bag, there's some fetch quests that are a little boring but they're OK I guess. There's some really great moments, I just went through this tunnel searching for an NPC who's gone AWOL, and it was fucking awesome. Music, visuals, sound and gameplay all working in concert to create a really neat little set piece.
So yeah. It has its issues but its pretty good for a mod. Way, way fucking better than the usual trash that gets lauded by the media like Falskaar. And no sign of woke shit either.
As I've already mentioned, it has its fair share of bugs, and I've also experienced some pretty sharp frame rate drops in the overworld today, so it needs a bit of polishing.