Warning: wall of text.
So despite starting Morrowind several times before, I'd never actually played through it, or rather its main quest. I think I did do the majority of the Fighters Guild and House Hlaalu quests previously, and explored a good deal of the world, but the main quest I never managed to get through. Over the last week or two I've been playing with the sole intention of finishing the main quest, and I did so today.
I think the thing I appreciate more than anything else about Morrowind is the way that the story is steeped so heavily in lore. The backstory of the game world structures the story itself and, interestingly, the biggest "plot twists" come in the form of simply uncovering past events. It's very common to find games with a textbook worth of lore; it's another thing entirely to see a game where the two are so tightly woven together, to the point of being pretty much inseparable.
The high points of the game, for me, were the conversations with Vivec and Dagoth Ur, simply from a character standpoint. For demigods, both of them have a great deal of depth and humanity, with Vivec coming across as cold and detached, and Dagoth Ur reveling in more base human emotions - but without going too far to extreme ends or giving up the opposite qualities. There's a great dichotomy in them, the philosopher and pragmatist, and it's easy to see that their places as god and devil could be swapped if the situation itself was different. Sure, Dagoth Ur could have used a bit more fleshing out, as you only get to talk to him once and he's still pretty blatantly Evil(TM), but I could still easily sympathize with him.
I really appreciated that the game specifically highlights differing accounts of game-defining events (specifically what happened at Red Mountain), but I think Vivec's suggestion that his story was "the truth" while still encouraging the player to decide on his/her own was a stroke of subtle genius. When Vivec told me to read both accounts and decide for myself, I did - and leaving the decision open revealed a lot about his character. Why would Vivec say that his story was the truth, yet encourage you to read a false account? Is it because he's just such an open-minded guy? Or is it because he was able to literally change history to create his own truth, to hide his own sins? This really cast a shadow over Vivec's claims to godhood, and made me question his motives.
I also loved the idea of failed incarnates in the Nerevarine prophecy. It was a pretty clever subversion of the usual "chosen one" trope just for its own sake, and showing that you were one of possibly dozens of even hundreds of people who were all "destined" to defeat Dagoth Ur makes it much easier to buy the idea that you're a god-slayer. Are you that powerful, or did you just get lucky? Are you really a reincarnation, or is the prophecy simply self-fulfilling?
I haven't played an RPG in quite some time that also makes me feel like such a goddamn badass that worked my way up from nothing. You have to work and train to get better, but when you start to max out your offensive skills, are ranked high in a guild and non-combat functions are no longer a waste of time, it does make you notice how and appreciate far you've come. This also holds true for the general mastery of the world - understanding of lore and cultures, the locations of all the cities, towns and villages, the travel routes between them, and so on. Once you can super-jump, levitate and run at crazy speeds all over the world, you really feel like you're on the top of the food chain. The simple fact that the game lets you do such crazy stuff is great.
That said, there are some issues with Morrowind that actually make me better appreciate the newer Elder Scrolls games more. Combat in Morrowind blows chunks. Melee combat sucks due to poor feedback, animations, lack of real tactics in timing and directing your strikes, etc., and while in theory magical combat should be more interesting, in practice it kind of just turns into a clusterfuck. I found I either roflstomped people with custom-made spells or died immediately because it seems most high-level enemies have a 50% chance to reflect your spell back at you. And I have to admit that area design, such as Red Mountain, really was not great (goddamn cliff racers and nix hounds).
Most dungeons are very small and uninteresting. I was expecting massive, sprawling underground labyrinths, but surprisingly there aren't too many of those throughout the game. There are very few dungeons which contain any sort of story or quest material as well - one thing later Elder Scrolls games do well is give a sense of narrative to these locations with unique books and notes lying around, and I was surprised to see this mostly missing in Morrowind.
The game really could have benefited from a bit more unique dialogue too. What's there is excellent, but I wish I could have asked direct questions of various NPCs. The info-dump format to conversations robs a lot of personality from characters and makes it hard to ask a very specific question. The encyclopedic format means that you do get a ton of information, but it also means that if you have a question or topic it doesn't cover, you probably won't find an answer. I hate to say it, but I actually think I prefer having 1-3 topics of conversation with an NPC, and having those topics be unique to that particular NPC, to the encyclopedia system in Morrowind.
There's some wasted potential with factions. I think the execution and high-level quest design here was mostly good, and seeing events from different sides based on who you're working for is great, but the low-level quest design sucked. Become archmage of all Morrowind by picking flowers and finding some old books! Deliver enough warm meals to lepers and eventually become a saint! The lack of storylines for the factions, or progression in the quests, was a pretty noticeable weakness (only Telvanni seemed to have any sense of growth and progression to me). And, although you get a disposition hit or boost with people depending on your faction association, I would have liked to see greater consequences for siding with A over B, something that can't be solved with a bribe or sweet-talking.
Last, and I know this is in part because the game is dated, but technical issues dragged things down a lot. Follower AI is so fucking awful I can't understand why they ever decided escort missions were a good idea - for example, I failed a quest one time because the person I was escorting decided to charge a dremora in melee with his fists, and then slipped and fell into a small pool that he couldn't escape from, and drowned because he was too stupid to keep his head above the surface. I didn't have any serious issues, but the frequent crashes and ease at which you can get stuck on terrain were very common annoyances. Several book models and icons were also broken for me, and no matter what I tried I couldn't fix them (even multiple mod-free reinstalls).
Overall, a good game, extremely ambitious, and worth playing through fully, but not a great one in actual execution. I enjoyed the world, lore, history and story quite a bit, and the openness of the game mechanics and systems were excellent, but I'd be lying if I said that the core gameplay often wasn't boring and monotonous, and the combat was just tedious at best, and HP-bloated click-spamming at worst. Minute-to-minute, I find Skyrim and even Oblivion much more enjoyable, even if they are weaker games in some respects and overall not as good.