Incline Resin 3D Printers are about to ruin Games Workshop forever.

[DJOGamer PT]

How have video games not ruined physical toys already? They do everything toys did but way better.

For kids until (at least) their first 5 years of life, physical toys are much better than videogames. It develops motor skills and creative tought, not to mention it's more healthy than have them glued to a screen.

Now for older people, like you can clearly see by this thread it's an hobby. Some like collecting, others like to assemble and paint them and some folks simply like the craftsmanship that goes into the higher quality stuff. Maybe even all these things at once

 

[Trans-Financial-Man]

What is your routine Trans-Financial-Man ?
Personally, I use prusa slicer first, auto-orientating or doing it by hand. 2nd step - adding prusa automated supports set on 74% (With highly detailed models I'm going with 88%)
after that, chitubox with options set to specific resin. Works wonders.
Those dwarves look like they've seen a little bit too much exposure, but it might look like this because of grey resin. Are you priming them afterwards before painting? I do.

Few things I've test printed yesterday, trying to check out the scale. I will be reprinting those 3mm higher as I don't like how small they are (Roughly half the size of primaris space marines)
Those boys(and girls) are needed for my 4ed WFRP pnp sessions.

These aren't cleaned perfectly yet, but for the most part I'm satisfied with the result. In 32mm scale they should look great.

Some space marines eliminators I printed and speed-painted in one day. They doesn't look good because of Coronavirus as I can't get hold of proper bases and better paints - Therefore I didn't give a damn. Got only the basic citadel set. Printing bases is a little bit of resin waste, so I tend to avoid that. Most of the time I glue stuff together.

Good thing I'm fucking done with green transluscent resin. It's brittle as heck. One of the most brittle resins out there.

I agree about the green resin. I used Anycubic Green and it destroys detail and also just looks fucking ugly. I switched to Anycubic Grey and it's a much sturdier, reliable resin. My routine is a pretty simple one. I use ChiTuBox for all my supports. I've never been happy with auto supports. They barely get a quarter of the islands and put loads of unnecessary supports on. So I manually put all my supports on. I print at 20 layers of 30 second Bottom Exposure then 8 seconds exposure for the rest. Any lower and thinner supports start to fail. It's especially annoying for super detailed models with lots of pokey bits. Then I stick the models in the sun for up to 3 hours. They take a while to cure and for some reason I can't find good UV lights in my area.

 

[SmartCheetah]

I've made a comparison of prusa slicer automatic supports and chitubox supports. Man, that's a hell lot of difference.
Chitubox supports left a lot of damage to the model and I had to manually add more points as the print will totally fail (you could tell that the suction from FEP film will basicly break those 2-3 tiny supports)
Same model with prusa slicer automatic set on 74%, then chitubox to slice it works very well. I dont bother with putting supports manualy as this method have never failed me.

 

[Norfleet]

Pssh. You kids and your fancy FIGURINES for your wargames. In MY day, we played our wargames with chunks of random wood with symbols drawn on them in pencil, and then sometimes those games got REAL.

 

[Trans-Financial-Man]

Pssh. You kids and your fancy FIGURINES for your wargames. In MY day, we played our wargames with chunks of random wood with symbols drawn on them in pencil, and then sometimes those games got REAL.

We thank you for trailblazing the path we take for granted now, ancient mummy of Egypt.

 

[Archwizard Hank]

I shelled out $200 almost a year ago for one of those entry-level DIY printer dealios and the damn thing's been languishing on my secondary desk because I'm too lazy to go through the hassle of leveling it

Would you say Warhammer 40K figures would be worth the trouble? Because I was just going to use it to build an army of killer robots to take over the planet otherwise

 

[Trans-Financial-Man]

I shelled out $200 almost a year ago for one of those entry-level DIY printer dealios and the damn thing's been languishing on my secondary desk because I'm too lazy to go through the hassle of leveling it

Would you say Warhammer 40K figures would be worth the trouble? Because I was just going to use it to build an army of killer robots to take over the planet otherwise

Do you play Warhammer? Then yes. The savings are worth the hassle. You can print a full 2000 point army, including vehicles, For around the price of a single £30 box of Marines. And that's being generous. It is a tremendous, time consuming hassle to put supports on each mini. And no matter what anyone else tells you Auto Supports are not effective. Levelling the build plate isn't hard though. Should take you ten minutes. Just put a sheet of paper on the LCD screen, loosen the plate with an Alan Key and lower the build plate onto the paper using the touch display until you can't move the paper. Tighten the plate up and you're ready to print. Pretty simple. The process of printing can be a messy faff though if you feel it's not worth it. But the savings cannot be argued with. £1.50 for a full 5 man squad of Marines is nothing to scoff at.

 

[SmartCheetah]

Ya got yourself FDM printer Archwizard Hank , aye?
If you're going for adeptus titanicus, you will be in for a treat. There is a lot of free .stl files for this faction. Also, FDM printers are kewl for bigger parts.

 

[Trans-Financial-Man]

Ya got yourself FDM printer Archwizard Hank , aye?
If you're going for adeptus titanicus, you will be in for a treat. There is a lot of free .stl files for this faction. Also, FDM printers are kewl for bigger parts.

I cannot stress how awful an FDM printer is for miniatures. Do not use an FDM printer for minis. Even Titans, I'm printing a Titan right now in bits at 0.3 layer height and it's going quite well.

 

[DraQ]

For kids until (at least) their first 5 years of life, physical toys are much better than videogames. It develops motor skills and creative tought, not to mention it's more healthy than have them glued to a screen.

Tactile to visual associations too, I would say.

 

[deuxhero]

I just got access to a 3d printer. Is all "PLA+" the same? Where do I find stuff to print?

 

[deuxhero]

I meant the material: Is there a distinguishable difference between one seller's "PLA+" and another's?

edit: Best base color for models?

 

[luj1]

Post pics of something that you printed out guys

 

[Trans-Financial-Man]

I meant the material: Is there a distinguishable difference between one seller's "PLA+" and another's?

edit: Best base color for models?

First answer, No. The colour doesn't matter. You'll paint it anyway. If you're speaking of FDM then most PLA you can get is pretty similar. Some melt or warp more than others. But honestly it's minor details. Get a decent spool from Amazon and you should be fine. Second answer, fuck off and get one of the newer resin printers if you want to print minis. The ones with 4k screens print better detail than even my OG Anycubic Photon. I'd go as far as saying that depending on the model you get BETTER detail than GW in some cases. Especially if your settings are dialled in right. Expecting an FDM to print minis is like trying to bang a screw into place with a hammer. Possible but with much greater effort and lesser results than just using a screwdriver. Resin Printers and FDM printers are very different from one another. FDMs are great for big pieces of terrain but you bet your arse you'll be sanding that POS for goodly while.

I recently bought an FDM printer for cosplay stuff. I want to fulfil my autistic fantasy of having Iron Man armour. So I'm going to be printing that at the next opportunity. What I really want to do is get one of the nicer and bigger resin Printers like The Elegoo Saturn or Anycubic Mono X. Problem being that even though Elegoo had the RRP of the Saturn as £500 they've suddenly marked it up to £800 so I'm waiting for a sale. If it stays at £800 I might as well save up the extra £200 for one of the even bigger printers like the Peopoly Phenom or something similar. I recently heard Elegoo have the Elegoo Jupiter in the works. Which seems to be their answer to the Phenom. But hopefully priced a little more reasonably.


Tech for these printers is proceding at a rapid rate compared to FDMs. Which all seem to be in a bit of a dead end right now. It seems like we'll start seeing gen 3 resin printers with huge build plates, 4k screens, low build time, and low cost sooner rather than later.