So, I forced myself to play this again (felt bad about spending $60 and playing only for few hours), and it seems I was wrong about the game. It's actually pretty decent.
They should really make a sign somewhere saying 'what you see in the first few hours is NOT everything the game has to offer, force yourself to play for at least 10h'. The beginning is so boring, empty, filled with same enemies, no people to talk to, zero quests, nothing. Throwing bombs at goblins gets boring pretty quickly. The freaking combat tutorial, which is the base for all the encounters (parry / side dodge / backflip etc.) is given to you in one of the villages, which you may (or may not) reach after more than 10 hours of playing, depending where you go. No idea why they didn't include it in the tutorial area.
After switching regions, suddenly you have some people to talk to, better enemy variety, different looking areas, weather conditions, shops to buy stuff, even some quests to take (although most of them are not very high quality, with some exceptions). Some of the shrine puzzles are actually very high quality and creative (and this is coming from a person who hates puzzles). Story is almost non-existent though (great evil awakens blabla), so if you're a storyfag, stay away. Still, it's a much better product than typical popamole open world games filled with collectibles .
At this point I have 65h in, all the map open, two divine beasts to tackle left, so probably will hit 100h playing this. The only major complaint I have about the game is extremely low enemy variety - you will spend most of your time fighting 3 enemy types: bokoblins, moblins, lizards. They will have different versions / colors / weapons, but for an AAA game, this is really bad. After 40h or so, I started avoiding combat sometimes, seeing same type enemies all over again. There are some other types (bats, wolves, chuchus), but they die in one hit and are more like a cannon fodder / easy money source.
TLDR: game is fine, but force yourself to play at least 10h.