Reached the snow area after the capital. I like it visually, but it's getting a bit too long. Still like that they keep varying the landscape. The capital was the absolute highlight and I wouldn't have minded if the game ended there.
The open world is cool and works much better than most modern open worlds. There is no handholding, you actually get to explore. See something in the distance, go there. No markers beyond some sites of grace giving you a rough direction hint on the map. It's refreshing to have an open world game with this degree of freedom. The horse is fast enough to make it easy to explore, and I keep finding new things when I pass through an area I had been to before. I had to look up where to find the key to the Raya Lucaria academy because I completely missed it and already explored the Altus Plateau when I thought "wait, what about that academy?"
The key to enjoying the open world is to not obsessively try to be completionist or systematic about it. Just explore, go where you want to go, take notes about things you missed, return later when you feel like exploring that area again. I switched between Liurnia, Caelid, and the underground Siofra River constantly.
The legacy dungeons are the highlight of the game, but the open world is one of the very few modern day open worlds that are actually done right.